This summer I had the good fortune to travel with a group of friends on a Viking River Cruise down the Rhône River from Lyon to Avignon in Provence, the beautiful southern region of France. But before we got to Provence, I wanted to start the trip with a few days in Paris.
I had been to France before, but never to Paris, and I was excited in a way only a first-time visitor can understand. As an artist, I was eager to see the Louvre, the Orsay, the Eiffel Tower, and all the iconic places I had dreamed about for years. But as a travel agent, I also wanted to see as much of the real city as possible, beyond the famous landmarks. With only a few days in Paris, the travel agent in me won out over the artist.
After an overnight flight, early arrival in Paris, and an unknown waiting time for our room to become available, my wife and I decided the best way to wake up in Paris was with a taxi to Trocadéro. And what a way to begin.
The Trocadéro is the grand esplanade that offers one of the absolute best, unobstructed views of the Eiffel Tower, which was built as the entrance to the 1889 World’s Fair. The buildings surrounding the plaza were constructed for the 1937 World’s Fair, and their symmetrical wings curve outward from a central terrace. Today, these complexes house several major institutions, including the Museum of Man, the Museum of Architecture, the National Naval Museum, and the National Dance Theater.
There’s a historical weight to the place that you can feel, even if you don’t stop to think about it too long. Standing there, looking out over the city, it was hard not to reflect on the past and all the history Paris has lived through. There is also a famous video of Hitler viewing the Trocadéro after the invasion of Paris during World War II. He had imagined Berlin would be more beautiful than Paris, yet ironically, Berlin would be left in ruins just a few years later. It was a thought-provoking and slightly eerie moment to reflect on while standing there.
After that long flight, though, we were not in the mood for a museum. We had planned on an early dinner anyway, and in true Jimmy Buffett style, we started with a little dessert by stumbling upon a wonderful Parisian chocolate shop just a few blocks away: Amande Paris. The whole area is full of chocolatiers and bistros. Paris, by the way, really is bistro heaven. You can hardly turn a corner without finding a café, a bistro, or a restaurant with tables spilling out onto the sidewalk. We ended up dining that night at Le Maison near our hotel, and it was exactly what we wanted after a travel day — good food, a great atmosphere, and wonderful service. Our server looked like Juan Lafitte, which made the whole evening feel even more fun, especially coming from New Orleans.
Our second day started with a city tour, which turned out to be the perfect way to get our bearings and see several of Paris’s most famous sights. It also gave us a longer stop at Notre Dame, which was one of the places we most wanted to visit after its reconstruction.
Notre Dame is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Paris, and its history dates back to 1163. It is truly an incredible sight, regardless of your faith, and an absolute must-see for Catholics. France is historically and culturally Catholic, and it is home to some of the most beautiful churches, cathedrals, and basilicas in the Christian world.
Because we arrived fairly early, the line was not long, and we had time to stroll through the Latin Quarter as well. In addition to the Panthéon, the famous mausoleum, the Latin Quarter is home to the Sorbonne, a historic university founded in 1257. Latin was the spoken and taught language of the medieval period, which is where the neighborhood gets its name.
This is a wonderful old district with a youthful energy, set against a medieval backdrop of narrow, winding cobblestone streets filled with cafés, bistros, and bookshops tucked into every corner. It’s the kind of place where you want to slow down and just wander.
After the city tour, we took another taxi to Le Marais, one of my favorite areas of Paris. It has such a lively, modern feel, but it still holds onto its history in a beautiful way.
We had lunch at Carette, where I had my first St. Germain Spritz, also known as a Hugo Spritz. That drink became a theme for the rest of the trip. Carette originally started as a pastry shop, and today it’s a wonderful spot for a light lunch, coffee, or something sweet. The location we visited was in the lovely Place des Vosges, which is the oldest planned square in Paris, built between 1605 and 1612.
From there, it was easy to explore more of the neighborhood. The Victor Hugo House, the Picasso Museum, and of course the one time sight of the historic Bastille prison, all give Le Marais so much character. It’s one of those districts where you can feel old Paris and new Paris living side by side.
That evening, we wrapped up the day with drinks on the 17th-floor Sky Bar at the Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile, and it was the perfect place to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night.
Montmartre was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Perched on a hill above Paris, the neighborhood feels a little more artistic, a little more bohemian, and a little less hurried than the rest of the city. At the top sits the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, a massive white church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. It was officially opened in 1910, and the views from there are simply incredible. If you’re up for it, climbing the stairs to the tower gives you an even better view of the city, though you’ll definitely earn it.
Just a short walk downhill is Place du Tertre, one of my favorite spots in Paris. It’s full of local artists, little restaurants, and souvenir stands, and it has that lively, creative energy that makes Montmartre so special. As you wander farther down the hill, the cobblestone streets are lined with boutiques and small shops that make it very hard not to stop and browse.
Eventually, we found our way to Moulin de la Galette, a traditional French restaurant in an old windmill, which was recommended by the hotel concierge. Like so many meals in Paris, it was memorable not just because of the food, but because of the setting, the atmosphere, and the service.
Our final afternoon in Paris was spent on the Seine, which felt like the perfect way to end our time in the city.
There are all kinds of sightseeing boats on the river — lunch cruises, dinner cruises, private charters, floating bars, and more. It’s such a lovely way to see Paris from a different perspective. The city feels different from the water. Softer somehow. More romantic. More timeless.
As we floated along the river, looking at the bridges, the buildings, and the landmarks that define the city, I found myself thinking that Paris really is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The Haussmann architecture, the famous landmarks, and the energy of the neighborhoods all come together in a way that feels effortless and unforgettable.
Not much, if anything. Because I know that one day I’ll have to return to Paris for the artist in me. The Louvre, the Orsay, Versailles, and many more sights are waiting in the travel wings of the future – not to mention a few more Bistros and Hugo Spritzes as well!
Note 1 - Like most big cities, don’t expect too much from your arrival into Paris. The airport can feel crowded and a little chaotic, and traffic into the city can be heavy. The city doesn’t really start to show its charm until you get deeper in and begin to reach the outer ring known as the Grand Couronne.
Note 2 - You no longer need to book a “skip-the-line” guided tour to see Notre Dame in a reasonable amount of time. That said, a guided tour will give you much more insight into its history and its importance in French Catholic life.
Note 3 - People often joke about Parisians being rude, but that was not my experience at all. I found them warm, welcoming, and perfectly pleasant. Paris is a big city, of course, and like any big city it has its pace, but I never felt unwelcome there.
Tip 1 - Taxis in Paris were easy to use and fairly affordable for a big city. Others in our group said the same about Uber. The tram is inexpensive, but it helps to have some patience, a little French, or both.
Tip 2 - You can get to the bottom of Montmartre by taking the city tram and then riding the funicular up to the top. Our taxi, however, saved us time and took us right to the front door of the Basilica.
Tip 3 – Paris is also now known for being one of the top Fashion and Shopping cities in the world. Paris has two official, government-regulated sale periods each year called les soldes, which occur in the winter (January) and summer (late June to July). These biannual events are the only times stores are legally allowed to sell stock at a loss to clear out seasonal inventory.
